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Casa Milà

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One of the most famous Gaudi designed structures in Barcelona is the Casa Mila, an apartment building completed in 1912. This is Gaudi at his best with an interesting amorphous shape and amazingly colorful details.
Besides the beautiful ironwork which I've shown in a few of my previous posts, many of his buildings are exceptional in their roof architecture. Not content with ugly chimneys and ventilation shafts, Gaudi would decorate these utilitarian objects and turn them into works of sculpture.
While I wasn't able to tour the Casa Mila due to time constraints, I was able to bring a small piece home with me. Over the past few years I've been collecting tiny (tacky?) miniature buildings from house museum gift shops and the main ventilation stack from the Casa Mila now sits on my bookshelf in between Thomas Jefferson's Poplar Forest and Gaudi's nearby Casa Battlo. What do you like to bring home from your travels as a momento?
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Palau Güell

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One of the lesser known Gaudi designed buildings in Barcelona is the Palau Guell. Unfortunately closed for repairs after years of work, I wasn't able to see inside which I hear is pretty amazing.
The Guell name is not unfamiliarly associated with the architect, as many of Gaudi's most famous designs were commissioned by the family. This was the Guell's main townhouse, built by Eusebi Guell from 1886-1890 directly off La Rambla. The house stayed in family hands, with a brief confiscation as army barracks during the civil war, until it was gifted to the country in 1945.
The main entrances seen on the facade were meant for carriages, one for 'in' and one 'out'; hows that for efficiency, much like a restaurant kitchen! The house revolved around entertaining and a large main entertaining room was located just inside off the entry court. The ceiling was studded with holes into the private rooms above to look like starlight, which also provided views of guests below so that the family could decide what to appropriately wear to greet their guests. Another efficient and ingenius idea!
As I wasn't able to see this for myself (the house should be open to the public again by summer 2011) I had to content myself with the beautiful ironwork on the windows outside; true masterpieces.
The small street that it's located on off La Rambla makes it hard to get a very good picture but you can see below that the facade is actually rather plain and quiet for a modernista structure, no matter how lovely. The exterior interest lays in the details of course which I've tried to show here. I think the lesson here is that Gaudi knew when his buildings should be stand out stars, and when they should be background structures. They can't all be masterpieces; sometimes a house is just a house, no matter how extraordinary!
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A Victorian treasure

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Last week I had the pleasure of attending an event at a house which is stuck in time; 1898 to be precise, the last time anything had been changed. While these rooms feel dark and heavy to many of this today, at the time they were safe and warm. Not just the wealth of the owners is on display, but they also show how far industrialization had taken our society.
The little girl's room had dolls set out for a tea party which was pretty charming (although reminded me a bit of a horror movie!).The servant's dining room in the basement showed the heavy German influence of the family.
While it may seem overwhelming as a whole, if you narrow in on details one is struck by how every piece has been paid attention to; Pretty extraordinary!
The ceiling in the front salon was particularly pretty. I'll be offline for the holiday but will be back next week! Happy Thanksgiving!
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A gentleman friend

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This past weekend I stopped by Goodwood, one of my favorite shops here in my DC neighborhood, and fell in love with a certain gentleman that I brought home.
I had an unfortunate accident where a large framed watercolor in this very spot on my gallery wall fell off and shattered 3 weeks ago (in the middle of the night of course). It was fate. I was free to bring home the gentleman and as he's the only portrait I own, I feel I need to name him. Any ideas, would love to hear them?
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A bright idea

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While in Barcelona, I stayed at Le Meridien on La Rambla. In the lobby next to the elevators was a vase of lilies that were very peculiar; their color changed, pink to white to blue to yellow. Now how did they do that?
Up in the ceiling was a very regular looking little box hidden in the stair opening that threw a slowly changing point of colored light onto the arrangement; So slow that it was barely perceivable. I began to wonder, weren't those flowers pink this morning or am I going crazy? Just another bright idea, sometimes technology IS useful!
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Stunning shells

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Another fascinating pair of objects from the decorative arts museum were these Victorian era (what is the spanish era equivalent?) shell bouquets. While these are relatively common, I had never seen any so colorful or intricate before!
This one in particular was stunning - an entire garden with maiden under a canopy of shell flowers under a glass dome! Sadly the lighting in the museum needs an upgrade and the picture isn't as clear as I had hoped for. Maybe some summer craft ideas for at the beach?
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A decorative screen

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Located just outside of the city center, the Museu de Arts Decoratives in the Palau Reial de Padralbes (seen below) is definitely worth the quick subway ride. The museum focuses on the decorative arts and interior design from Barcelona throughout history. The palace also contains a ceramic and a clothing museum, but I'll bring those to you at another date.Probably my favorite object in the museum was this dramatic decorative screen by Francesc d'Assis Gali. Gali was an artist and educator who practiced in an art school he founded in 1906 until his death in 1965 which produced such pupils as Juan Miro and Josep Artigas.The screen dates to 1929, a very important year as it turns out (especially for Gali) as it is the year of the Barcelona Universal Exhibition (think Barcelona Pavilion) of which he was the Artistic Advisor.The fair not only put Gali on the map internationally, but also Barcelona which has such a rich history of design. I'll be sharing with you some of my favorite items in this museum over the next few weeks -would love to hear what you think of them!
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Main Post Office

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One of my favorite things to see in Barcelona, which you won't find in many guidebooks, is the beaux arts styled main post office.Centrally located off the Barceloneta metro stop, just below the Born and the Gothic quarters and with views of Port Vell, plenty of people pass this building and assume it's a cathedral of sorts.
Yes, you are reading this correctly, this grand building is the post office!Since you'll probably be walking by numerous times a day during your stay, take a peek inside with me.The quiet entry vestibule is efficient but begins to prepare you for the main room beyond with the beautiful details of stone columns, bronze lanterns and a dentil'd cornice (a common Beaux arts design layout).I thought this stair, while beautiful, was perhaps a bit understated for such a grand building, but I suppose it's not meant to gain attention: guests not welcome in the offices upstairs!The piece de reisistance is the main postal room with beautifully frescoed ceiling.Now THIS is the place to mail your postcards home!In case you still don't believe me, it is labeled plain as day, Correos. The space is light filled thanks to the glass dome a few stories above.
Just another close up of the beautiful columns and that ceiling.
Tucked into a corner was a bit of history. I would assume Spanish mail isn't still delivered using these bicycles (but as slow as it is, it just may be!).
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Cabin fever

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I spent the past weekend in a blissfully remote cabin in West Virginia. The scenery was so stunning I had to share it with you all!
As we were up in the mountains, fall is nearly over and the air is crisp with the anticipation of winter. I just love the crunch of the leaves beneath your feet and the smell of camp fires.
These are the views from the cabin where I spent most of my time napping; in between reading and munching on peanut m&m's with cups of tea for good measure!
You never know what you'll find down a lonely country road.
Unfortunately the weather was a bit chilly to be using the screen porch but the fireplace inside saw a lot of action!
We didn't even need to use the dinner bell, no one wandered very far.
Next time, we'll leave the light on for you! Tomorrow, back to much more glamorous locations in Barcelona.
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Amorino

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You cannot visit Barcelona and not eat your way through the city. Barcelonians are all about food: whether it be tapas, pinchos, large meals or dessert.
While not strictly Spanish, the Gelato shop Amorino along La Rambla was probably my favorite haunt; conviently located 2 blocks from our hotel, Le Meridien.
I don't have much of a sweet tooth but I do have a taste for good gelato -and this is the BEST gelato you will ever have, I promise you. So if ever in Barcelona, Paris, London, Munich or any city lucky enough to have one of these shops, be sure to visit and indulge! Be sure to get a cone and enjoy the presentation: an ice cream cone transformed into a flower.
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Placa Reial

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Directly off La Rambla is one of my favorite spots in Barcelona, the Placa Reial or Royal Plaza.
Built in the 1850s, the central fountain in the plaza has become one of the prime meeting spots in the city.Admittedly very touristy, as is much of La Rambla area, the arcades surrounding the plaza are filled with countless (mediocre) restaurants. However, if you don't speak Catalon or Spanish, the menus are available in English and it's a wonderful place to spend an hour absorbing a beautiful space in a central location. It's not all tourists though; while not mealtime, locals gather here to soak up some Spanish sun under the stately palms!
Of course, it wouldn't be Barcelona without a touch of the modernisme; the Neo-Classical lamps were designed by the cities' most popular architect, Antoni Gaudi.
Be sure to walk through this enormous and beautiful square while in Barcelona!
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